Rabbit Husbandry Guide
Raising Rabbits Successfully
1. Getting Started
2. Buying Your Foundation Stock
3. Rabbit Housing
4. Rabbit Nutrition & Basic Care
5. Breeding Rabbits
6. Common Rabbit Ailments
____________________________________________________
Getting Started
Why raise rabbits? Rabbit meat is one of the healthiest you can consume. It’s significantly lower in cholesterol than chicken, beef and pork. It is also low in fat and calories (even more than chicken) and higher in protein than any other meat. It is also very economical to produce compared to most other meats: A doe rabbit that weighs 10 pounds can produce 320 pounds of meat in a year. That is more than a cow and it takes 2 acres of land (at the very least) to raise a cow! Baby rabbits feed off mother’s milk so rich that they can double their weight in 6 short days as compared to a pig at 14 days and calves at 47 days, so rabbits produce more meat with a faster yield. A by-product of meat rabbits is the pelt obtained after butchering that can be used for clothing items once tanned. Fiber breeds can also be used for meat but are mostly kept for their fur, of course. Wool harvesting does not hurt or harm the rabbits in any way. Actually, it’s essential for keeping their coats in prime condition. A good rule of thumb is to figure that the average rabbit will produce 8 to 32 ounces of wool per year, and the wool is excellent for spinning and weaving. Rabbit wool is much finer than sheep; many who find sheep’s wool to be scratchy will love rabbit wool for its softness and comfort. Some Angora breeds can be plucked or sheared to harvest their wool; the Giant Angora cannot be plucked and must be sheared with clippers.
Which breed is right for me? Heritage breeds are the obvious choice for meat production. They typically have a higher meat-to-bone ratio, meaning they produce more than the average commercial breeds. They are also usually more vigorous and better mothers, and are less prone to disease or illness. You should research the various heritage breeds thoroughly to determine which would fit your needs best. As far as wool rabbits, Angoras are the fiber producers, although some fiber can be produced with Jersey Woolies, too. Good resources for learning about the different breeds of rabbits are The Livestock Conservancy and the American Rabbit Breeders Association websites. Both will have the heritage breed descriptions, and the ARBA site will also list the Angoras. You may also contact the breed clubs of the rabbits you’re considering, as well as reputable breeders, to learn more about a particular rabbit. Don’t underestimate temperament when selecting a breed. You will be handling your rabbits frequently, either to breed them or to clean their cages, or to move them to exercise/grazing pens should you choose; you need a breed that is docile and tolerates handling well.
What does it take to be a successful rabbit breeder? Rabbits are relatively easy to care for, but you should not consider raising rabbits unless you’re prepared to care for them physically and financially. Sanitation is of utmost importance in keeping healthy rabbits, so be prepared to clean cages, feed bowls/hoppers, water bowls/bottle, etc. routinely. Biosecurity measures are also important, particularly if a rabbit is shown or when new stock is added. Rabbits also require proper housing and feed to thrive. If choosing an Angora, be prepared to provide regular grooming (sometimes even daily grooming) to keep the coat in prime condition. The meat breeds will groom themselves, and indeed, rabbits by nature are very clean animals.
____________________________________________________
Buying Your Foundation Stock
You should strive to purchase the best rabbits you can afford for your foundation stock. Rabbits with good show lines are not necessarily crucial in your decision; however, a rabbit from a show winning line is more likely to exhibit the qualities that best represent the breed standard. Look for a breeder who carries good lines and reports good production with their herd. Ask a lot of questions about the line, the breeder’s experience with the breed, the facility, just anything you can think of about the rabbit you’re interested in; a reputable breeder will patiently answer your questions and likely will have several questions for you in return. Beware the seller who won’t take time to ensure his/her stock is going to a suitable home or who isn’t willing to answer any/all of your concerns/questions. Most reputable breeders will also offer free advice for the lifetime of the rabbit you purchase from them. In short, a good breeder will be more interested in promoting his/her breed than in making a quick sale. A good breeder should also be very knowledgeable about the breed standard and should be striving to improve his herd.
You should also try to buy pedigreed rabbits if possible. The pedigree is some assurance you’re getting a purebred from rabbits that meet the standard; of course, nothing is foolproof and in the end, the pedigree is only as accurate as the honesty of the breeder, so here is where the breeder’s reputation and integrity should come into play. A pedigree is a record of three generations for the rabbit (parents, grandparents, great grandparents) and contains information such as weights, colors, and show winnings. To register a rabbit with ARBA, you will need a copy of the pedigree; however, if you show a rabbit and aren’t interested in registering it, you will not need it. If your sole purpose is personal meat production, you may choose not to have the pedigrees. But keep in mind, you could have a potential market for live rabbits you produce and a pedigree would increase their desirability and value. It is wise to pass by a rabbit who does not have a complete pedigree (ie, ear numbers missing, weights missing). A reputable breeder will provide the pedigree at the time of sell; he/she should have the pedigree in hand and give it to you when you receive the rabbit. This is only good business. Many people have been burned in a transaction because the breeder promised to mail the pedigree to the buyer, and did not follow through, leaving the purchaser with virtually a non-pedigreed animal bought at a significant price.
_________________________________________________
Rabbit Housing
Housing is an extremely important consideration. The number one priority is ventilation. Rabbits can tolerate fairly high temperatures if there is adequate ventilation for them. They cannot tolerate temps above 80 degrees if the air is stagnant and the humidity is high (above 60%). The general consensus is that the air exchange needs to be a minimum of 10 changes per hour. Lighting is also important; longer periods of darkness will increase fur quality and growth, whereas longer periods of light will increase the doe’s receptiveness for breeding. In short, go dark to improve the fur, light to improve production. Does need a minimum of 16 hours of light for optimum production. For developing the fur, less than 8 hours of light is recommended.
Some people consider putting their rabbits on the ground. Care must be taken and animals must be closely observed, as this practice can lead to parasite infestations. Most breeders agree, the best home for a rabbit is on wire, with a rest provided for relief to avoid foot problems and for comfort. Rests can be blocks of wood, commercially produced mats, or ceramic tiles. We purchased the sample floor tiles at Lowe’s to use for rests; they’re economical and very easily sanitized, and the rabbits cannot chew them. If you choose to raise your rabbits on wire, you may also place worm beds under them for composting. Some breeders prefer to use trays under the wire and others will use reinforced plastic belting material as a trough to catch the manure under the wire.
Hutches are also popular for housing rabbits. Just be sure you place the hutch in a well shaded spot. Some owners have placed their hutches in what they thought to be a shaded area only to discover the sun shone directly on the hutch at certain hours of the day, and they ended up with overheated or dead rabbits. Avoid this by observing the area morning and evening to be sure it remains shaded all day.
Regardless of the type of housing used, if the rabbit is exposed to the elements, it will need a place that is closed in to protect it from wind and cold. This might be a closed area in the hutch, or a simple box placed in the wire cage. If you house the rabbit in a barn or other ‘closed’ facility, it should be fine without a box in the cage. Rabbits tolerate cold much better than hot. You will also want to consider predators that might seek your rabbits. The housing should be secure with small wire (chicken wire is not a good choice; the holes are too big and it’s not very strong). Many raccoons have helped themselves to a meal by reaching or chewing through large wire to get the rabbit. They are also good at opening latches, so be sure you use something strong or provide a lock. Some rabbits have been lost to neighboring dogs that stray onto the owner’s property. Be sure to place your rabbit cages high to deter this.
As for cage size, most fiber and meat rabbits are 8-12 pounds, so you will need to provide a cage that is at least 24” deep by 26-36” wide and 18” tall. Giant breeds need 24” deep by 36-48” wide and 24” tall to be comfortable; and they need a solid flooring with bedding, as they cannot tolerate wire. Bucks will benefit from larger cages as exercise increases their fertility, and does with litters will appreciate more size, especially as the kits grow.
_____________________________________________
Rabbit Nutrition & Basic Care
Most commercially prepared rabbit foods are adequate in terms of nutrition. However, many people are interested in organic feeding. There are several online resources for finding information concerning feeding rabbits with less dependency on pellets. One thing that should be stressed is the rabbit’s need for fiber. This especially true during times of molt (when the rabbit sheds its coat and replaces it with a new one). Rabbits are meticulous groomers (much like a cat). The fiber in their diet will help prevent hairballs. To achieve this, many people feed a quality grass hay. It can also be achieved through feeding whole oats ( found as oat ‘seed’ at the feed store). Some rabbits bloat on rolled oats or instant oats, so it is not advised to feed anything other than whole oats. The rabbit can actually digest the oats better than the hay. Most rabbits do not require supplements if fed a commercial feed. If you choose to feed a more natural diet, however, you’ll need to provide a salt wheel---preferably one that contains minerals.
Treats can be used for bonding with your rabbit and are useful when you want to check a litter, to keep the doe occupied. Never give lettuce to your rabbit. If you want to give a treat, dark greens (such as spinach or kale) are good choices, as are pieces of fruit (no apple seeds!), root crops (potatoes, carrots, etc.), and bread. Greens from the yard, particularly dandelion and plantain, are also very good choices. Just be sure there were no pesticides used on or near the leaves. Sticks from fruit trees are also good in providing a chew ‘toy’ for your rabbit to wear his constantly growing teeth down. Again, organic only. Yogurt can be given when the rabbit has been stressed, to help the gut maintain normal function.
Water is extremely important to your rabbit’s health. Make sure he has a clean supply daily. Most breeders recommend a water bottle, as a crock will easily and quickly get soiled by most rabbits. In the winter, water bottles will freeze, so you may have to use a crock when the temps are too cold, unless you have electricity in your rabbitry and purchase heated water bottles or use a special automatic watering system.
Unless you choose a fiber breed, your rabbit will not require grooming. You should never bathe a rabbit, as this can expose him to chill and invite disease, and can also lead to fly strike; it also will ruin the condition of most fur. Rabbits will groom themselves, much as a cat does.
When handling your rabbit, pick him up in a manner that makes him feel secure and hold/carry him close to your body. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears. This is very painful and not necessary.
A rabbit’s nails will need to be trimmed regularly, as you would trim a dog. You can use dog nail trimmers or even a large nail trimmer for people. Cradle the rabbit in your arms and gently roll him over to his back so you can access his feet easily. Press the paw to extend the claws and trim the tips (careful not to get the quicks). This is the same as you would do for a dog, and is usually easily done, providing you take the time beforehand to get your rabbit used to lying on his back in your arms.
____________________________________________________
Breeding Rabbits
There is more to consider than simply placing a doe in the buck’s cage when breeding rabbits. An ethical breeder is one who is humanely responsible for the care of the rabbit he or she produces, regardless if it is harvested, maintained on the farm, or sold to another ethical rabbit breeder. A strict culling program must be utilized if the breeder is be successful in any endeavor. One should strive to breed only the best representatives of his/her chosen breed, and those which fall short of the standard should be culled. Below are several facts to consider when breeding rabbits:
Below is a gestation table for kindling. Go to the month the doe was bred, then go down the column to the day she was bred, and move directly over to the next number on the right. This will be the due date. Example, a doe bred Mar. 31 should kindle May 1. This table was calculated on the typical 32 day gestation period; keep in mind does may vary from 28-34 days.
1. Getting Started
2. Buying Your Foundation Stock
3. Rabbit Housing
4. Rabbit Nutrition & Basic Care
5. Breeding Rabbits
6. Common Rabbit Ailments
____________________________________________________
Getting Started
Why raise rabbits? Rabbit meat is one of the healthiest you can consume. It’s significantly lower in cholesterol than chicken, beef and pork. It is also low in fat and calories (even more than chicken) and higher in protein than any other meat. It is also very economical to produce compared to most other meats: A doe rabbit that weighs 10 pounds can produce 320 pounds of meat in a year. That is more than a cow and it takes 2 acres of land (at the very least) to raise a cow! Baby rabbits feed off mother’s milk so rich that they can double their weight in 6 short days as compared to a pig at 14 days and calves at 47 days, so rabbits produce more meat with a faster yield. A by-product of meat rabbits is the pelt obtained after butchering that can be used for clothing items once tanned. Fiber breeds can also be used for meat but are mostly kept for their fur, of course. Wool harvesting does not hurt or harm the rabbits in any way. Actually, it’s essential for keeping their coats in prime condition. A good rule of thumb is to figure that the average rabbit will produce 8 to 32 ounces of wool per year, and the wool is excellent for spinning and weaving. Rabbit wool is much finer than sheep; many who find sheep’s wool to be scratchy will love rabbit wool for its softness and comfort. Some Angora breeds can be plucked or sheared to harvest their wool; the Giant Angora cannot be plucked and must be sheared with clippers.
Which breed is right for me? Heritage breeds are the obvious choice for meat production. They typically have a higher meat-to-bone ratio, meaning they produce more than the average commercial breeds. They are also usually more vigorous and better mothers, and are less prone to disease or illness. You should research the various heritage breeds thoroughly to determine which would fit your needs best. As far as wool rabbits, Angoras are the fiber producers, although some fiber can be produced with Jersey Woolies, too. Good resources for learning about the different breeds of rabbits are The Livestock Conservancy and the American Rabbit Breeders Association websites. Both will have the heritage breed descriptions, and the ARBA site will also list the Angoras. You may also contact the breed clubs of the rabbits you’re considering, as well as reputable breeders, to learn more about a particular rabbit. Don’t underestimate temperament when selecting a breed. You will be handling your rabbits frequently, either to breed them or to clean their cages, or to move them to exercise/grazing pens should you choose; you need a breed that is docile and tolerates handling well.
What does it take to be a successful rabbit breeder? Rabbits are relatively easy to care for, but you should not consider raising rabbits unless you’re prepared to care for them physically and financially. Sanitation is of utmost importance in keeping healthy rabbits, so be prepared to clean cages, feed bowls/hoppers, water bowls/bottle, etc. routinely. Biosecurity measures are also important, particularly if a rabbit is shown or when new stock is added. Rabbits also require proper housing and feed to thrive. If choosing an Angora, be prepared to provide regular grooming (sometimes even daily grooming) to keep the coat in prime condition. The meat breeds will groom themselves, and indeed, rabbits by nature are very clean animals.
____________________________________________________
Buying Your Foundation Stock
You should strive to purchase the best rabbits you can afford for your foundation stock. Rabbits with good show lines are not necessarily crucial in your decision; however, a rabbit from a show winning line is more likely to exhibit the qualities that best represent the breed standard. Look for a breeder who carries good lines and reports good production with their herd. Ask a lot of questions about the line, the breeder’s experience with the breed, the facility, just anything you can think of about the rabbit you’re interested in; a reputable breeder will patiently answer your questions and likely will have several questions for you in return. Beware the seller who won’t take time to ensure his/her stock is going to a suitable home or who isn’t willing to answer any/all of your concerns/questions. Most reputable breeders will also offer free advice for the lifetime of the rabbit you purchase from them. In short, a good breeder will be more interested in promoting his/her breed than in making a quick sale. A good breeder should also be very knowledgeable about the breed standard and should be striving to improve his herd.
You should also try to buy pedigreed rabbits if possible. The pedigree is some assurance you’re getting a purebred from rabbits that meet the standard; of course, nothing is foolproof and in the end, the pedigree is only as accurate as the honesty of the breeder, so here is where the breeder’s reputation and integrity should come into play. A pedigree is a record of three generations for the rabbit (parents, grandparents, great grandparents) and contains information such as weights, colors, and show winnings. To register a rabbit with ARBA, you will need a copy of the pedigree; however, if you show a rabbit and aren’t interested in registering it, you will not need it. If your sole purpose is personal meat production, you may choose not to have the pedigrees. But keep in mind, you could have a potential market for live rabbits you produce and a pedigree would increase their desirability and value. It is wise to pass by a rabbit who does not have a complete pedigree (ie, ear numbers missing, weights missing). A reputable breeder will provide the pedigree at the time of sell; he/she should have the pedigree in hand and give it to you when you receive the rabbit. This is only good business. Many people have been burned in a transaction because the breeder promised to mail the pedigree to the buyer, and did not follow through, leaving the purchaser with virtually a non-pedigreed animal bought at a significant price.
_________________________________________________
Rabbit Housing
Housing is an extremely important consideration. The number one priority is ventilation. Rabbits can tolerate fairly high temperatures if there is adequate ventilation for them. They cannot tolerate temps above 80 degrees if the air is stagnant and the humidity is high (above 60%). The general consensus is that the air exchange needs to be a minimum of 10 changes per hour. Lighting is also important; longer periods of darkness will increase fur quality and growth, whereas longer periods of light will increase the doe’s receptiveness for breeding. In short, go dark to improve the fur, light to improve production. Does need a minimum of 16 hours of light for optimum production. For developing the fur, less than 8 hours of light is recommended.
Some people consider putting their rabbits on the ground. Care must be taken and animals must be closely observed, as this practice can lead to parasite infestations. Most breeders agree, the best home for a rabbit is on wire, with a rest provided for relief to avoid foot problems and for comfort. Rests can be blocks of wood, commercially produced mats, or ceramic tiles. We purchased the sample floor tiles at Lowe’s to use for rests; they’re economical and very easily sanitized, and the rabbits cannot chew them. If you choose to raise your rabbits on wire, you may also place worm beds under them for composting. Some breeders prefer to use trays under the wire and others will use reinforced plastic belting material as a trough to catch the manure under the wire.
Hutches are also popular for housing rabbits. Just be sure you place the hutch in a well shaded spot. Some owners have placed their hutches in what they thought to be a shaded area only to discover the sun shone directly on the hutch at certain hours of the day, and they ended up with overheated or dead rabbits. Avoid this by observing the area morning and evening to be sure it remains shaded all day.
Regardless of the type of housing used, if the rabbit is exposed to the elements, it will need a place that is closed in to protect it from wind and cold. This might be a closed area in the hutch, or a simple box placed in the wire cage. If you house the rabbit in a barn or other ‘closed’ facility, it should be fine without a box in the cage. Rabbits tolerate cold much better than hot. You will also want to consider predators that might seek your rabbits. The housing should be secure with small wire (chicken wire is not a good choice; the holes are too big and it’s not very strong). Many raccoons have helped themselves to a meal by reaching or chewing through large wire to get the rabbit. They are also good at opening latches, so be sure you use something strong or provide a lock. Some rabbits have been lost to neighboring dogs that stray onto the owner’s property. Be sure to place your rabbit cages high to deter this.
As for cage size, most fiber and meat rabbits are 8-12 pounds, so you will need to provide a cage that is at least 24” deep by 26-36” wide and 18” tall. Giant breeds need 24” deep by 36-48” wide and 24” tall to be comfortable; and they need a solid flooring with bedding, as they cannot tolerate wire. Bucks will benefit from larger cages as exercise increases their fertility, and does with litters will appreciate more size, especially as the kits grow.
_____________________________________________
Rabbit Nutrition & Basic Care
Most commercially prepared rabbit foods are adequate in terms of nutrition. However, many people are interested in organic feeding. There are several online resources for finding information concerning feeding rabbits with less dependency on pellets. One thing that should be stressed is the rabbit’s need for fiber. This especially true during times of molt (when the rabbit sheds its coat and replaces it with a new one). Rabbits are meticulous groomers (much like a cat). The fiber in their diet will help prevent hairballs. To achieve this, many people feed a quality grass hay. It can also be achieved through feeding whole oats ( found as oat ‘seed’ at the feed store). Some rabbits bloat on rolled oats or instant oats, so it is not advised to feed anything other than whole oats. The rabbit can actually digest the oats better than the hay. Most rabbits do not require supplements if fed a commercial feed. If you choose to feed a more natural diet, however, you’ll need to provide a salt wheel---preferably one that contains minerals.
Treats can be used for bonding with your rabbit and are useful when you want to check a litter, to keep the doe occupied. Never give lettuce to your rabbit. If you want to give a treat, dark greens (such as spinach or kale) are good choices, as are pieces of fruit (no apple seeds!), root crops (potatoes, carrots, etc.), and bread. Greens from the yard, particularly dandelion and plantain, are also very good choices. Just be sure there were no pesticides used on or near the leaves. Sticks from fruit trees are also good in providing a chew ‘toy’ for your rabbit to wear his constantly growing teeth down. Again, organic only. Yogurt can be given when the rabbit has been stressed, to help the gut maintain normal function.
Water is extremely important to your rabbit’s health. Make sure he has a clean supply daily. Most breeders recommend a water bottle, as a crock will easily and quickly get soiled by most rabbits. In the winter, water bottles will freeze, so you may have to use a crock when the temps are too cold, unless you have electricity in your rabbitry and purchase heated water bottles or use a special automatic watering system.
Unless you choose a fiber breed, your rabbit will not require grooming. You should never bathe a rabbit, as this can expose him to chill and invite disease, and can also lead to fly strike; it also will ruin the condition of most fur. Rabbits will groom themselves, much as a cat does.
When handling your rabbit, pick him up in a manner that makes him feel secure and hold/carry him close to your body. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears. This is very painful and not necessary.
A rabbit’s nails will need to be trimmed regularly, as you would trim a dog. You can use dog nail trimmers or even a large nail trimmer for people. Cradle the rabbit in your arms and gently roll him over to his back so you can access his feet easily. Press the paw to extend the claws and trim the tips (careful not to get the quicks). This is the same as you would do for a dog, and is usually easily done, providing you take the time beforehand to get your rabbit used to lying on his back in your arms.
____________________________________________________
Breeding Rabbits
There is more to consider than simply placing a doe in the buck’s cage when breeding rabbits. An ethical breeder is one who is humanely responsible for the care of the rabbit he or she produces, regardless if it is harvested, maintained on the farm, or sold to another ethical rabbit breeder. A strict culling program must be utilized if the breeder is be successful in any endeavor. One should strive to breed only the best representatives of his/her chosen breed, and those which fall short of the standard should be culled. Below are several facts to consider when breeding rabbits:
- Have a clear goal in mind before breeding the rabbits; do you want to produce meat for your own table? Do you want fiber for your crafts? Are you seeking to provide breeding stock for others who want to breed their own meat and/or fiber? Choose animals to mate which clearly complement each other and will help you reach your goal.
- Obtain your breeding pairs/trios from the same rabbitry. Contrary to many novice’s beliefs, it’s best to mate rabbits which are somewhat related to each other. Parent to offspring matings are best left to experienced breeders, but half siblings, “cousins”, and “uncle/niece” or “aunt/nephew” pairings are fine, provided the rabbits are healthy and meet their breed standard. It is not recommended to breed full siblings to each other, however; be it littermates or siblings from different litters of the same parents.
- Rabbits that are over or under fed will not produce well. Learn the standard weight for your breed, as well as the general optimal condition for your individual rabbits.
- Bucks will become temporarily sterile if the temperature is 80 degrees or higher for 5 consecutive days. He should regain fertility after several weeks, up to a couple of months, depending on the buck.
- Bucks will increase their fertility through exercise, so it’s wise to provide him with an exercise pen or to house him in a large cage.
- Does do not have a regular ovulation period. Instead, they allow breeding to take place and this triggers ovulation.
- Does can be re-bred when their current litter is 6 weeks old. This gives her two weeks to finish the litter (no rabbit should be weaned before 8 weeks) then 2 weeks of rest before kindling (giving birth) again.
- Does should be taken to the buck’s cage for breeding because they are territorial and might try to fight the buck if he’s brought into ‘her’ space.
- Gestation is typically 32 days, but can vary from 28-34 days. A nest box will need to be provided about the 27th day of pregnancy. Too early, and the doe will likely use it for a litter box. Too late, and you’ll have kits born on the wire, which usually means a dead litter.
- Does can be palpated 10 days into the pregnancy. Gently feel for ‘blueberries’ in the doe’s lower abdomen. Does that have had several litters are usually easier to palpate successfully.
- Does will start to build their nests when kindling is eminent. She will need hay or other suitable material for her nest box. She’ll also pull fur from her dewlap (area under her chin).
- Breed at least two does to kindle at the same time, in case you need to foster kits from one mother to the other. Facilitate the foster by rubbing a small amount of vanilla extract on the orphaned or rejected kit/s’ head/s, and some on the heads of the intact litter, then some under the receptive mother’s nose. She won’t be able to decipher the new from the old and will accept the foster/s. Some does will accept fosters without the vanilla.
- When a first time mother kindles, she needs to have a quiet, private place. Check the litter soon after birth by giving the mom a treat to keep her busy, then rub your hand in the fur, and check the litter for size and for dead kits which must be removed immediately. Then leave the litter and new mom alone as much as possible for the first several days, checking the kits once daily.
- Does do not sit in the nestbox like a hen on her chicks. She will only feed them once or twice a day. If you feel the kits and they are warm with firm bellies, she’s feeding them. Likewise, if their skin is not overly wrinkly or loose, then they’re hydrated---she’s nursing them.
- Kits will open their eyes on day 10. Shortly thereafter, they will begin crawling out of the nest. The wire in the brood cage should be ½ inch; you should install a baby guard if the wire is larger, or run the risk of losing kits from the cage to the floor/ground.
- Kits will nibble on pellets around 3 weeks, and this is generally a good time to remove the nest box from the cage, as well. Make sure they still have a bed/nest of hay inside the cage for warmth and to keep them off the wire. Change the bed every few days to keep it clean and dry.
- ·The litter should stay with their mother until they are at least 8 weeks old. Not only because they shouldn’t be weaned earlier than this, but also because she teaches them proper behaviors. Keep in mind the larger breeds mature slower than the smaller ones. Many breeders will remove the doe from the litter (this results in less stress for the young rabbits) when the kits are 8 weeks old, and then hold them just to give them a hardier start, before offering them for sale at 9-10 weeks of age. Rabbits going to the freezer should be butchered at 10-12 weeks old.
Below is a gestation table for kindling. Go to the month the doe was bred, then go down the column to the day she was bred, and move directly over to the next number on the right. This will be the due date. Example, a doe bred Mar. 31 should kindle May 1. This table was calculated on the typical 32 day gestation period; keep in mind does may vary from 28-34 days.
_____________________________________
Common Rabbit Ailments
There are several ailments and hazards to consider when raising rabbits. Below is a reference to some of the common things you might encounter.
Common Rabbit Ailments
There are several ailments and hazards to consider when raising rabbits. Below is a reference to some of the common things you might encounter.