Producing your own chicken feed is not as difficult as one might think. Most people estimate you need a bushel of grain per year per chicken—but it should be less than that if you free range. Even if you cannot produce enough to carry your flock year round, we believe whatever you are able to provide will be better than relying solely on commercially produced feed. Here is what works for our flocks:
Whole Oats 25%
Red Wheat 25%
Duckweed 15%
BOSS 10%
nonGMO corn 5%
Mealworms 5%
Amaranth 5%
Flax 5%
Loose Trace Mineral 2.5%
Diatomaceous Earth* 2.5%
(*food grade only)
We don’t have the capabilities and equipment to grow/harvest enough wheat and oats, or to produce the loose trace minerals and Diatomaceous Earth; therefore, we realize those feed items will need to be purchased. We can, however, grow the other items here on our farm. We are currently raising mealworms and propagating duckweed, and we plan to grow amaranth, flax, non GMO corn, and BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds) this season on our property. Below is a detailed account of how to produce these feeds.
1. Duckweed: Very high in protein, duckweed is an excellent choice for feeding poultry. It’s also prolific and therefore easy to grow. We have a 55 gallon aquarium, and we purchased a start of the duckweed online. You may choose to add a water plant fertilizer; however, we find it does well in our setup on its own. We hope to move some outside when the weather permits to further increase production. Harvesting is simply scooping it out of the container, draining it, and mixing it with the other feed ingredients.
2. BOSS: Black oil sunflower seeds are a great feed additive. Sunflowers are fairly easy to grow. The main issues are keeping birds and other unwanted guests from dining on them. For the most success, choose a sunny location (minimum of 6 hours full sun daily). Work the soil at a depth of about 1 foot. Add about 2 inches of organic compost over the raked area. Work it into the soil to a depth of 1 foot. Even the surface by raking it. Determine your rows for the sunflowers, spacing them 6-8” apart. Move the soil so that it peaks to the inside of the rows, forming a dirt mound in the center and moats between the rows. Make holes in the peaks, 1” deep, 6” apart, drop 1 seed into each hole and cover. Sprinkle with water daily until the seeds sprout, then begin watering in the moats to encourage roots to grow, but be careful never to drench, as sunflowers don’t like ‘wet feet’. When the plants are 5” high, remove the least vigorous seedlings so that there is about 18” between the remaining healthier ones. Keep them well watered. When the heads begin to grow and produce seeds, you might want to stake the plants to keep them from toppling over. BO sunflowers generally take 90 days from planting to producing seed; harvest from the head by cutting the whole head and hanging in a cool, dark, dry place (some people put them in panty hose and hang them), or pull directly from the head when the stalk dries. Birds may be thwarted by putting netting or panty hose over the head as you allow it to dry naturally on the stalk. On a side note, you can feed the leaves and stalks to rabbits; just be sure not to feed too much at one time, and to always introduce new feeds to your rabbit very, very slowly, over a period of several days to avoid upset stomachs and diarrhea. Rabbits also enjoy the sunflower seeds!
3. nonGMO corn: An heirloom dent type corn is ideal feed for chickens when you wish to give them an energy source, such as during the winter. Open pollinated (heirloom) varieties are a little higher in protein than the commercially produced corns, as well. A soil ph of between 6.5 and 7.5 is ideal for dent corn as it does best in weakly acidic soil - weakly alkaline soil. Plant in small "hills" (groups of 3 kernels) 1 ½” deep, every 8-12” in rows 30” apart as soon as frost is past. Thin to the most vigorous plant per hill when seedlings are about 5” tall. Corn needs to be grown in a good sized patch to be successful. Grow at least 6 rows, and keep them all together. Corn is pollinated mostly by wind action, and growing corn in 6-row blocks aids in pollination. Also, the more rows you plant together, the more support and protection they can provide to each other from strong winds. Hill up soil onto the stalks when it reaches about 12 - 18 inches tall for added strength against wind. The nodules on the lower stalk will form new roots. The soil should cover about 6-8” of the lower stalk. Corn is a heavy feeder and likes lots of nitrogen, and it is a preferred crop of several insects and unwelcome four-legged visitors. This is challenging for the organic farmer. Organic fertilizers suitable for corn include partially rotted manure, blood meal and fish emulsion. Corn also requires a lot of water, so make sure your soil stays moist. You may consider a drip irrigation system to grow corn. Harvest the dent corn when husks have fully yellowed on the stalks and store on the cob in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. You may shell the corn and store it in recycled feed bags, just be sure there is no moisture to cause the corn to mold.
4. Mealworms: Raising mealworms is very simple. We use a 10 gallon aquarium, but you may also use a plastic tote. We prefer the glass over the plastic due to BPA concerns. To create a mealworm habitat, use whole grain oatmeal or wheat bran to make a 2-3” substrate. Place a small tile (or other impermeable “dish”) and cut a potato or an apple into quarters, placing them onto the tile; this will provide the worms with moisture, and using the tile prevents the moisture from causing the meal substrate to mold. The potato/apple will mold, so remove and replace it every two to three days. You can also sprinkle their food with calcium (the dust from the bottom of an oyster shell bag works well) or vitamins. Add the mealworms directly to the substrate---they live in their food supply. Clean the habitat once worms are 1” long, by sifting frass (waste) and bedding out once a month, dispose of in garden, wash and dry container, return worms and add new food. Here is a great link to guide you in raising mealworms, that also gives you a ton of information about their life cycle and needs: http://www.sialis.org/raisingmealworms.htm
5. Amaranth: We had originally planned to grow quinoa (keen-WAH) for our birds, but soon into our research, we discovered amaranth would be more suitable for our climate and it’s very comparable to quinoa in terms of nutritional values. Quinoa is best grown where summer temperatures do not exceed 90 degrees, whereas amaranth prefers heat and tolerates drought well. Make sure the amaranth seed you purchase is for food production and not the ornamental type; the ornamental still produces seeds and edible leaves, but not the quantity needed for poultry feed. Direct sow the seeds in loamy soil rich in phosphorus and nitrogen (achieved by adding compost). Plant in full sun, 6-8” apart and thin to 10-12” when seedlings emerge. Water the amaranth once or twice a week during a dry spell. Amaranth will grow 1-2 feet and will produce blooms on strong, straight stems. Flowers are long lasting, and will bloom from mid summer until frost. Seeds will often ripen many weeks before the first hard frost--usually after about three months from planting. The best way to determine if the seeds are harvestable is to gently but briskly shake or rub the flower heads between your hands and see if the seeds easily fall. Of course, you’ll want to harvest the seed during dry weather, and make sure you allow the seeds to dry (you can use a screen) before storing the seeds in airtight containers. On an added note, the leaves of the plant are edible and can be used in place of spinach or in salads, and they are extremely nutritious. Just be sure use them in moderation to avoid decreasing your seed production.
6. Flax: Flax seeds are a great way to provide Omega 3s and fiber for you birds in winter. Flax is a perennial, so it needs a well-drained, sunny location that you can devote for growing it permanently. Sow seeds in soil amended with compost, covering each seed with no more than 1/8 inch of the garden soil. The plants should ultimately be 12-14” apart, but you can sow seeds closer and then transplant as needed to achieve the desired spacing. Flax needs good air circulation around the plants, so you may need to prune them occasionally. Watch out for disease and apply fungicides as needed. You may harvest the seeds when 90% of them are brown. The plant will likely still have some green leaves at this stage. Dry thoroughly, then store in an airtight container.
In a future blog, we’ll discuss how we ferment and sprout the wheat and oats to increase their nutritional value.
As always, we welcome your comments and questions!
Whole Oats 25%
Red Wheat 25%
Duckweed 15%
BOSS 10%
nonGMO corn 5%
Mealworms 5%
Amaranth 5%
Flax 5%
Loose Trace Mineral 2.5%
Diatomaceous Earth* 2.5%
(*food grade only)
We don’t have the capabilities and equipment to grow/harvest enough wheat and oats, or to produce the loose trace minerals and Diatomaceous Earth; therefore, we realize those feed items will need to be purchased. We can, however, grow the other items here on our farm. We are currently raising mealworms and propagating duckweed, and we plan to grow amaranth, flax, non GMO corn, and BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds) this season on our property. Below is a detailed account of how to produce these feeds.
1. Duckweed: Very high in protein, duckweed is an excellent choice for feeding poultry. It’s also prolific and therefore easy to grow. We have a 55 gallon aquarium, and we purchased a start of the duckweed online. You may choose to add a water plant fertilizer; however, we find it does well in our setup on its own. We hope to move some outside when the weather permits to further increase production. Harvesting is simply scooping it out of the container, draining it, and mixing it with the other feed ingredients.
2. BOSS: Black oil sunflower seeds are a great feed additive. Sunflowers are fairly easy to grow. The main issues are keeping birds and other unwanted guests from dining on them. For the most success, choose a sunny location (minimum of 6 hours full sun daily). Work the soil at a depth of about 1 foot. Add about 2 inches of organic compost over the raked area. Work it into the soil to a depth of 1 foot. Even the surface by raking it. Determine your rows for the sunflowers, spacing them 6-8” apart. Move the soil so that it peaks to the inside of the rows, forming a dirt mound in the center and moats between the rows. Make holes in the peaks, 1” deep, 6” apart, drop 1 seed into each hole and cover. Sprinkle with water daily until the seeds sprout, then begin watering in the moats to encourage roots to grow, but be careful never to drench, as sunflowers don’t like ‘wet feet’. When the plants are 5” high, remove the least vigorous seedlings so that there is about 18” between the remaining healthier ones. Keep them well watered. When the heads begin to grow and produce seeds, you might want to stake the plants to keep them from toppling over. BO sunflowers generally take 90 days from planting to producing seed; harvest from the head by cutting the whole head and hanging in a cool, dark, dry place (some people put them in panty hose and hang them), or pull directly from the head when the stalk dries. Birds may be thwarted by putting netting or panty hose over the head as you allow it to dry naturally on the stalk. On a side note, you can feed the leaves and stalks to rabbits; just be sure not to feed too much at one time, and to always introduce new feeds to your rabbit very, very slowly, over a period of several days to avoid upset stomachs and diarrhea. Rabbits also enjoy the sunflower seeds!
3. nonGMO corn: An heirloom dent type corn is ideal feed for chickens when you wish to give them an energy source, such as during the winter. Open pollinated (heirloom) varieties are a little higher in protein than the commercially produced corns, as well. A soil ph of between 6.5 and 7.5 is ideal for dent corn as it does best in weakly acidic soil - weakly alkaline soil. Plant in small "hills" (groups of 3 kernels) 1 ½” deep, every 8-12” in rows 30” apart as soon as frost is past. Thin to the most vigorous plant per hill when seedlings are about 5” tall. Corn needs to be grown in a good sized patch to be successful. Grow at least 6 rows, and keep them all together. Corn is pollinated mostly by wind action, and growing corn in 6-row blocks aids in pollination. Also, the more rows you plant together, the more support and protection they can provide to each other from strong winds. Hill up soil onto the stalks when it reaches about 12 - 18 inches tall for added strength against wind. The nodules on the lower stalk will form new roots. The soil should cover about 6-8” of the lower stalk. Corn is a heavy feeder and likes lots of nitrogen, and it is a preferred crop of several insects and unwelcome four-legged visitors. This is challenging for the organic farmer. Organic fertilizers suitable for corn include partially rotted manure, blood meal and fish emulsion. Corn also requires a lot of water, so make sure your soil stays moist. You may consider a drip irrigation system to grow corn. Harvest the dent corn when husks have fully yellowed on the stalks and store on the cob in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. You may shell the corn and store it in recycled feed bags, just be sure there is no moisture to cause the corn to mold.
4. Mealworms: Raising mealworms is very simple. We use a 10 gallon aquarium, but you may also use a plastic tote. We prefer the glass over the plastic due to BPA concerns. To create a mealworm habitat, use whole grain oatmeal or wheat bran to make a 2-3” substrate. Place a small tile (or other impermeable “dish”) and cut a potato or an apple into quarters, placing them onto the tile; this will provide the worms with moisture, and using the tile prevents the moisture from causing the meal substrate to mold. The potato/apple will mold, so remove and replace it every two to three days. You can also sprinkle their food with calcium (the dust from the bottom of an oyster shell bag works well) or vitamins. Add the mealworms directly to the substrate---they live in their food supply. Clean the habitat once worms are 1” long, by sifting frass (waste) and bedding out once a month, dispose of in garden, wash and dry container, return worms and add new food. Here is a great link to guide you in raising mealworms, that also gives you a ton of information about their life cycle and needs: http://www.sialis.org/raisingmealworms.htm
5. Amaranth: We had originally planned to grow quinoa (keen-WAH) for our birds, but soon into our research, we discovered amaranth would be more suitable for our climate and it’s very comparable to quinoa in terms of nutritional values. Quinoa is best grown where summer temperatures do not exceed 90 degrees, whereas amaranth prefers heat and tolerates drought well. Make sure the amaranth seed you purchase is for food production and not the ornamental type; the ornamental still produces seeds and edible leaves, but not the quantity needed for poultry feed. Direct sow the seeds in loamy soil rich in phosphorus and nitrogen (achieved by adding compost). Plant in full sun, 6-8” apart and thin to 10-12” when seedlings emerge. Water the amaranth once or twice a week during a dry spell. Amaranth will grow 1-2 feet and will produce blooms on strong, straight stems. Flowers are long lasting, and will bloom from mid summer until frost. Seeds will often ripen many weeks before the first hard frost--usually after about three months from planting. The best way to determine if the seeds are harvestable is to gently but briskly shake or rub the flower heads between your hands and see if the seeds easily fall. Of course, you’ll want to harvest the seed during dry weather, and make sure you allow the seeds to dry (you can use a screen) before storing the seeds in airtight containers. On an added note, the leaves of the plant are edible and can be used in place of spinach or in salads, and they are extremely nutritious. Just be sure use them in moderation to avoid decreasing your seed production.
6. Flax: Flax seeds are a great way to provide Omega 3s and fiber for you birds in winter. Flax is a perennial, so it needs a well-drained, sunny location that you can devote for growing it permanently. Sow seeds in soil amended with compost, covering each seed with no more than 1/8 inch of the garden soil. The plants should ultimately be 12-14” apart, but you can sow seeds closer and then transplant as needed to achieve the desired spacing. Flax needs good air circulation around the plants, so you may need to prune them occasionally. Watch out for disease and apply fungicides as needed. You may harvest the seeds when 90% of them are brown. The plant will likely still have some green leaves at this stage. Dry thoroughly, then store in an airtight container.
In a future blog, we’ll discuss how we ferment and sprout the wheat and oats to increase their nutritional value.
As always, we welcome your comments and questions!